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Alexander McQueen Resort 2013


I have argued and strongly put across my views in the worst opinionated manner you will ever witness. I have stressed, complained and even shed tears. My moods have fluxed from great anger to complete sadness. I have felt emptiness but with confusion and disbelief on my hands. Ladies and Gentleman, meet the world’s biggest, the most stubborn, bratty child you will ever meet. Yes, that is me and what am I even on about? Just over two years ago, the fashion industry lost one of the greatest designers to ever live and to be a devoted McQueen lover like myself, the emotions described above somehow manage to make its way out of me each season Sarah Burton presents since the Fall/Winter 2010 collection. Each collection further and further moves away from the original McQueen aesthetic, there is no longer that sense of theatrical drama and a powerful story driving through the collection. Each look McQueen presented was unique and nothing you’d see before. He would constantly shock, inspire and make you fall in love with him more and more. And to me, I feel this lacks now in these collections Burton presents. That original aesthetic and what McQueen stood for is completely lost. The last Fall/Winter 2012 season, on seeing the collection, I can remember tweeting: “It is no longer Alexander McQueen, it is Sarah Burton.” Harsh but true words, I would justify but here I am, flicking through the Resort 2013 collection Burton has presented and I just want to hug her and tell her I’m sorry for every little nasty thing I said. I absolutely love it. I was speechless and yes, I did shed a tear but not in an angry, stressful haze but in fact because I was relieved and ecstatic. It was literally like my true love just asked me to marry me. One hand in the air and the other on my heart and I swear I am not even joking how serious I am about this.

Burton looked to David Bowie for the Resort 2013 collection where his gender-blurring Glam rock looks in the early seventies were used for source of inspiration which gave a masculine meets feminine essence to the collection yet still achieved that perfect balance. The collection took on the role of the much more masculine driven side to the McQueen label, where tailoring was revisited. “I thought it would be nice to go back to the body. To be sleeker, more sexy,” Sarah Burton comments. “We had been doing a lot of peplums, but we took them away to make the torso fitted and wanted to visually elongate the legs as much as possible.” Alexander McQueen was well known for his wide knowledge in tailoring and the ability to adapt the menswear templates for womenswear clothing as previously trained with the tailors on Savile Row. What is remarkable is Burton is also further adapting and although stays true to the original ideas McQueen presented in his tailoring, she moves forward. Trousers did not reach below the waist as were the infamous ‘bumsters’ but stayed at the waistline and even higher in some cases. They were also bootcut (as many of the McQueen trousers were) and flared outwards and with the addition of the very high waistlines that nipped into the waist, it created elongated legs as if the model was almost like the dragonflies that appeared on several of the garments. The shoulders were peaked creating that much harder edge to the garments which empowered the female figure but still oozed femininity which demonstrated everything that McQueen stood for. To see Burton move away from the pretty but extravagant dresses and move back to the much harder, tailored and masculine side McQueen demonstrated in his collections is what has made me fall back in love with the McQueen label.

In the space of a couple of minutes, through a series of 28 photographs of beautifully constructed garments; Sarah Burton made me grow up. She isn’t McQueen and of course, she cannot produce or even come to the same level to what McQueen did. She has her own style and own aesthetic but what she can do is the ability to stay true to what McQueen did and keep that spirit alive in the collections. I’ve came to terms that I’m no longer going to see these dramatic, dark and inspiring shows with individual garments were each look is completely different to the last but instead a collection that is much simpler yet still timeless and full of luxurious pieces that have the McQueen spirit running through them. With the McQueen CEO Jonathan Akeroyd announcing that the Alexander McQueen label is set to dominate British fashion by becoming the best British luxury ready-to-wear label, it is clear that we will witness this. We will witness what one man created, a company that showcased his ideas and dreams and even nightmares transit into a luxurious label that will run for years to come to always pay tribute to that one man. And to that I say, long live Alexander McQueen. You can see all the looks from the collection here.

Photos Courtesy of Alexander McQueen.
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